Rates Given - Punk_FAS

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art, music, etc. / Re: Post Musical Equipment Here....
Informative Informative
on October 27, 2018, 12:55:58 PM to Focalor
With cables, it almost doesn't matter which brand you buy anymore, MOST of them aren't terrific. They'll perform fine when they're new and if you baby them all the time. D'addario under the company name Planet Waves used to make some really really good cables back in the early 2000s. The connectors were sealed and molded with hard plastic to make it virtually IMPOSSIBLE to break the solder points inside. The ends were gold plated and had these cool spliced sides that would make the plug always stay firmly connected and noise-free even if the plug rotated in the jack a little.

I dunno what specific model of cable that is pictured. Mine were all black plastic ends, not brushed metal like that. But that's the same basic sure-connect thing. I absolutely CANNOT find these anymore. And no one else makes anything similar. If you ever find any, get some. I swear to god, you can't break those things even INTENTIONALLY. I bought a 25 footer back in 2005ish for about 70 bucks I think. I slammed my guitar on the ground with the plug still in it and it bent the metal end of the plug to a 45 degree sticking out (did WAY worse to my Ibanez, some DEEP gashes in the tail of the guitar from that temper tantrum). IT STILL WORKS PERFECTLY FINE! I've tried locking it down in a bench vise and bending it back straight, but it won't budge even if I whack the fuck out of it with a 2 pound mallet. So I just use it as is. Still works just fine, lol.

Anyway, my advice on cables is to get something decent, but don't spend ridiculous rich-boy prices on shit like those fucking Mogami Gold cables that they ask about 80 bucks for. That's a stupid investment. Fender makes some decent ones with braided tweed shielding, I use one myself a lot. Had it for about 15 years with no problems. The thing to remember is to not let the straight cable end get bent in a 90 degree angle from the plug, like if you sit with the plug pressing against a sofa cushion or the floor or something. It'll stress that solder joint and break it.

I've used those Ernie Ball 9's myself for decades on my Ibanez. I tried using them on my Gibson Les Paul with a tune-o-matic bridge like yours. I've encountered problems with them though. The high 9 string always comes unwrapped from the ball end after the strings get settled in and I start trying to do bends on it. Had it happen to me about 5 times now, every set I've tried to put on there. I always end up having to put another 11 or 12 on there in its place to take the tension without unwrapping from the ball end, so then my strings go 11, 11, 16, 24, 32, 42. It sounds okay I guess, but personally I like a thinner springier sound from my lead playing and the ability to bend notes more than 1 step up. With an 11 on the top, it's really difficult to muscle the string and bend it past 2 full notes.

So if you're ever playing and notice that 6th string keeps tuning down and you have to keep twisting the peg to tune it back up correctly, the string is probably coming unwound from the ball end. If it'll work with those Ernie Ball 9's though, yeah, use those. They're dirt cheap and decent quality.
art, music, etc. / Re: Post Musical Equipment Here....
Rock On Rock On
on October 26, 2018, 09:56:42 PM to quadz
P.S. my parents were not thrilled with the notion of my playing electric guitar; and my first practice amp (circa 1982) was presumably the cheapest available in the local music store:

To my present-day annoyance, I think that lackluster amp may have survived all the moves since then and still reside in a closet somewhere; whereas I sold gear along the way (e.g. rackmount Yamaha SPX-90 effects processor that I'd bought new in the mid/late 80's) that I wish I still owned today. :D

Oh well.


Most of all - have fun!

art, music, etc. / Re: Post Musical Equipment Here....
Informative Informative
on October 26, 2018, 03:08:02 PM to Focalor
With a few cheap little tools, you could easily learn how to do setups on that guitar yourself. I'd highly recommend learning that too. It's not hard, and most places are gonna charge you 25 or 50 bucks to do it in addition to the price of new strings, so you save considerable money over time... unless you just NEVER do a proper setup on it, slap some strings on it, and go... which I did to my guitars for many years, lol. But seriously, it's good to learn how to do it. It gives you a better understanding of how string height affects the sound on that particular guitar, and gives you a better overall "awareness" about your playing.

And with that particular guitar, it's pretty simple. It's a 25.5 inch scale length, which roughly is the measurement from the nut to the bridge saddles. So when you start setting up a guitar, you'll wanna measure from the nut to the center of the 12th fret. In your case, that's gonna be 12 and 3/4 inches. So on the high E string you wanna start at the 12th fret and measure 12 and 3/4 inches to the saddle. Set the 3rd string saddle at the same distance from the 12th fret as well. And... I was gonna keep talking, but when I read what I typed, I realized how fucking confusing and stupid I sound, so instead, I'll just post a video that'll tell you pretty much everything you need to know about doing a setup.

And this guys using a Gibson Les Paul Studio to do a setup. A Les Paul is a 24.75 scale length guitar (yours is 25.5, remember) But the basics are the same. When he starts the setup, he measures from the nut to the 12th fret. Whatever that is, is what you measure from the 12th fret to the saddle for a rough intonation.

<span data-s9e-mediaembed="youtube" style="display:inline-block;width:100%;max-width:640px"><span style="display:block;overflow:hidden;position:relative;padding-bottom:56.25%"><iframe allowfullscreen="" scrolling="no" style="background:url(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/KYO23rGO_7M/hqdefault.jpg) 50% 50% / cover;border:0;height:100%;left:0;position:absolute;width:100%" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KYO23rGO_7M"></iframe></span></span><br /><a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/KYO23rGO_7M" target="_blank" class="new_win">https://www.youtube.com/v/KYO23rGO_7M</a>

Once you get a "rough intonation", you can begin giving it a FULL intonation to make sure all the strings play perfectly in pitch all the way up the neck. For that... DEFINITELY get a digital tuner. Some of the better ones can even be set to tune down from standard tuning in half steps down as far as 3 full steps. It'll probably cost you about 50 to 80 bucks for a good one, but it's WAAAAAAY better than using some stupid pitch pipe thing or comparing the sound to a CD lesson book recording. I think a company called Snark also makes cheaper 15 dollar ones that clip onto your headstock, but I dunno if they can tune down at all. Mines a... one of these.


Hmm, says 17.99. I think I paid about 40 for it a couple years ago. Must be discontinued and on clearance, says "in store only". It's good because it can tune guitar OR bass, and I have both. It can tune by the little onboard mic, but when I'm setting up, I always use the instrument cable jack input on the tuner to be as accurate as possible.

Great thing about your guitar is the bridge. It's the best thing for a beginner in my opinion. You could start out on a guitar with a tremolo bridge like on a Fender Strat or a double locking tremolo bridge like whats on a Ibanez RG or something, but it might only serve to confuse and frustrate you as a beginner. With a tune-o-matic style bridge, life is easy... you can tune up and still get a screwdriver in there to adjust the saddle positions, bada bing no problems. On some tremolo bridges, particularly many of the double locking designs (theres LOTS of variations), it's literally IMPOSSIBLE to adjust the saddle positions while a string is on it. That's why I fucking ABHOR setting up double locking tremolos. It can take as long as ALL DAY sometimes, LITERALLY. Once you get them balanced and tuned and working right, they're great. You can do all kinds of crazy things like EVH and Dimebag were famous for, shit you can only do with that kind of tremolo system. Last time I set up my Ibanez Joe Satriani signature, I spent EIGHT FUCKING HOURS adjusting on it before I finally got it balanced out perfectly.
Politics / Re: Kavanaugh
Nice Job / Good Work Nice Job / Good Work
on October 06, 2018, 07:41:51 AM to Focalor
Is he a rapist? Is he not a rapist? I think people are getting pissed off about the wrong thing here.

Just like with the last Presidential election, this is the jackass they force on us. Seriously? Is there no one else? No one at all? Someone who ISN'T getting accused of rape? The biggest thing that should stick out to anyone here is that we the people have NO CHOICE AT ALL in this matter. NONE. Fuck it, THIS is who you get, you get no say in the matter, shut the fuck up and take the pills we give you. We don't get to elect the people who make the decisions at the highest level which shape the laws that rule our lives. Our fucking President and his people, they get to nominate someone, they know what we need better than we do apparently. And we don't really get to elect HIM either, we have an electoral college that does that FOR us.

Free country, my ass.
Jokes / Re: Funny Pictures
Funny Funny
on September 26, 2018, 09:23:53 AM to Focalor
(notice which doors are men and womens)

Quake / New Anticheat Release
Nice Job / Good Work Nice Job / Good Work
on August 13, 2017, 04:50:42 PM to R1CH
Hello everyone!

I've just pushed an updated anticheat.dll to the server which I believe should resolve compatibility issues with Windows 10.

Unfortunately, this means the file has changed and many anti-virus programs will begin throwing up false positives due to the packed file. Please be sure to white list your quake 2 folder or the anticheat.dll in any anti-virus / firewall or other security software.

While the auto-update should work, due to anti-virus you may need to manually update by replacing anticheat.dll with the version from https://antiche.at/files/anticheat.zip. Also note that it still might crash on the first run as the problematic code is run before the DLL self-updates.


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